Herbaceous mayonnaise has been a classic accompaniment to cold salmon since the 19th century, roughly coinciding with the emergence of some of the “traditional” rules of food and wine pairing. “White wine with fish” is a starting point, but then the choices of which white wine to pair with salmon in herb sauce allows one to dabble in “alchemical” matchings: does one pick a buttery white burgundy to reinforce the richness of the salmon? A Loire white to reinforce the some of the herbaceous notes in the sauce while its acidity contrasts with the richness of the fish?
For Rick Shepro’s presentation, we opted for “classic,” albeit a late-19th century classicism, that we made more in keeping with current dietary concerns by the addition of Greek yogurt.
1⁄4 cup dill, coarsely chopped
1 cup Greek yogurt
1⁄2 cup mayonnaise, ideally homemade
2 teaspoons tarragon, coarsely chopped
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
a few drops fresh lemon juice
salt and pepper to taste
Let flavors meld for at least 30 minutes before serving with poached salmon.